Adrian Tierney-Jones is a beer and food writer who on a September evening visited Ramsgate’s Montefiore Arms to talk about and read from his new book. Indeed one of its sub-chapters is called Seasider and is about visiting a few pubs in Ramsgate including the Montefiore. Given the book’s title is A Pub for All Seasons his returning to the starting point of this book's journey from research to printing seems like a season-like cycle completion in its own right.

Not surprising then that he says “I’ve always loved the seasons and this book is about pubs and their subtle organic change as the seasons pass, which gently become more profound.” He explained that the book took him a year to research and write and that it is not a guide but a thoughtful contemplation containing history, quotes and observations, recollections of his family’s life in Llandudno, local traditions and anecdotes from across the country, perhaps even with a little streak of melancholy in it, indeed he explained his mum died during its writing.

Its inspiration came from a 2018 article he wrote for CAMRA’s Beer Magazine - similarly about seasons and pubs. The book covers seasonal change, times to drink dark Herculean beers and times to drink light beers and how a pub fire brings people together. It’s all about pubs.

His research took him all over the country to pubs he knew and to pubs that were recommended to him. Of course, this didn't just involve talking to others. Listening to pub conversations was just as important to give local context, though that wasn’t always successful. He recounted that at The Three Tuns in Shropshire ‘A door opened and a man brought in the shine of spring and sat on a stool. ‘Had a horrible morning, an angle grinder with cut brushes, horrible,’ he said; there was a Welsh lilt to his accent. ‘I’ve even got a black belly button, don’t know how that happened.’ His companion muttered his condolences. They then begin to talk about Land Rovers and I switched off. I didn’t always get it right. Also some venues had no soul, like the Northern Monk Tap Room in Leeds”. At this some wag at the book launch quipped “Wow a monk with no soul!”.

Before reading extracts from his book Adrian explained that his writing style is often described as floral “Like Saaz hops” (typically used in Czech pilsners). “Leaves tumbling through the air in a fever of faith… The wind was biting and bestial in Southwold… At the Artillery Arms the elderly owner was sitting in a Lilliputian chair while his wife was serving the exquisite beers” (Slight warning. These quotes from A Pub for All Season may not be exact – but you perhaps get the idea. To see the actual text why not buy the book).

Adrian was then asked why he started his "Tour of Distraction", as he calls his book promotional tour, at the Montefiore, what he thought of Wetherspoons, and his thoughts on social media beer writers.

“Why in the Monty? I’ve known Eddie Gadd for years and this place was just perfect and it does feature in my book. Eddie’s a beer writer's dream for experience and quotes. He once said “you can find Buddha or whatever you want in a fermenter vessel”. He’s even brewed in Belgium or something” To which Eddie, who was there responded “Whatever happens in Belgium stays in Belgium!”. Adrian continued “even tonight the Monty feels different because it’s a different season from when I last visited with Eddie. It feels more compact and warm. It has wood. I like to have wood in pubs” – there was much amusement to this.

“Wetherspoons, well an observation really. Someone once told me that Tim Martin looks like an out of work violinist. But while doing my research, Eddie and I were going to visit the Royal Victoria Pavilion, Europe’s largest Wetherspoons, but time didn’t permit us, and besides I didn’t agree with Tim Martin about Europe. But I certainly don’t denigrate Wetherspoons. Although, I’m not sure Wetherspoons’ pubs change that much with the seasons.” On that point it was put to Adrian that part of Wetherspoons success was about being predictable, comfortable and the same. He agreed and reiterated that he doesn’t denigrate them.

“I also don’t denigrate influencers writing on social media about beer and pubs, good luck to them but I’m old school and my background is journalism. But anything to keep the pub trade relevant has to be good. Sometimes I think not enough young people come to pubs and wonder, Are we the last Romans standing on the wall?”

Talking again about his love of pubs and what makes a good pub he said “Why do I love the exuberance of pubs, because they are a symbol of hope in these troubled times. The suspension of reality has always been a part of the purpose of the pub and gives respite from things large and small. Not least will climate change take our seasons away which would be terrible?

Anyway, a good pub;

• It changes with the seasons.
• The beer, whether cask or keg plus the extensive family of authentic lagers which have big interest for me.
• Surroundings, and being able to talk to others or sometimes not.
• Sensibility and venerability, wood – the secret language of the forest to the pub.
• Sense of history and authenticity.
• And finally - people make pubs.

Adrian’s 2024 tour continues. He will be in Southwold in the first week of October then a local pub after (The Bridge Inn, Topsham) followed by the Lion in Liverpool. In November, he will be at the Ivybridge Brewery Taproom and a Leeds literary festival with Amity brewery. Who knows where he will end up next?

A Pub for all Seasons.